Frankfurt, Bornheim: A Hidden Treasure

By Kelly Seely

Frankfurt am Main, Germany, the financial capital of mainland Europe, not to be confused with Frankfurt (Oder) on Germany’s border to Poland, is often celebrated and known for its beautiful architecture and influence due to the European Central Bank, which calls Frankfurt home.  Occasionally tourists take day trips from the most trafficked airport in Europe, Fraport, with the ease of the metro to the center of the city and visit rebuilt beauties like the Aldstadt (old city) on the Römerberg. What the well-meaning passersby don’t realize is that they are only 3 underground stops from one of Frankfurt’s hidden and highly authentic treasures.

From the Dom/Römer stop, to which the passersby normally meander, one only has to take the U4 underground train in the direction of Enkheim/Seckbacker Landstraße 3 stops to Höhenstraße to find  Bornheim.  The district is right on the outside of the northeast part of the city ring (Nordend-Ost).  When you exit the Höhenstraße exit, walk uphill on Berger Straße and you’ll know you’ve entered the beginning of Bornheim.  For the next ca. 2 Kilometers (1.5 miles or so), you’ll encounter a variety of family owned cafés, Turkish fast food, clothing, and kiosks, where you can pick up an affordable drink on your way down the street.

Bornheim, when combined with its sister neighborhood of Nordend has a population of about 90,000 residents.  These areas make up the most densely populated area in Germany.  Due to this density, there is only room typically for small businesses. There are, however, many small businesses to meet the demand of the area.  Bornheim is home to Malepartus and Apfelwein Solzer.  These are two of the best restaurants in Frankfurt, which offer traditional Frankfurter cuisine (Apple wine, hand-cheese with music, Schnitzel, sausage, and Frankfurt’s famous green sauce over eggs or boiled potatoes).

On your way up the Berger Straße you will also come to the next underground stop, Bornheim Mitte.  There is a short Fußgängerzone (pedestrian zone) at this point.  Every Wednesday and Saturday, there is a fresh farmer’s market with produce, meats, cheeses, flowers, fine foods, and Imbiss (German food carts).  Don’t turn around yet.  In order to go to the Apfelwein Solzer Restaurant, you’ll have to keep walking.  You can stop for a coffee or a drink at one of the hundred of restaurants, cafes, gelaterias, bars, kiosks, and small grocery stores in Bornheim.

After you’ve made it to the Apfelwein Solzer and had one of the best local experiences in Germany, on your way back, you should head toward the Günthersburgpark.  If you arrive during the warm spring and summer months, bring a blanket, lay down with a book, and relax under the hundreds of trees that pepper the park.  There are no dogs allowed in the park, which means you’ll have no trouble finding a spot on the grass!  If you have kids with you, they will absolutely love the free water fountain that sprays all day long  and includes a small water slide.

As the time turns toward the evening, head uphill in the park and enjoy a snack and a drink from the kiosk next to the playground.  Even if you don’t have kids, take a moment to admire German playgrounds. This particular playground was made FOR kids, BY kids…  Well, actually I don’t know if it was made BY kids, but whoever designed it certainly had kids in mind, and not lawyers!

After the kids have dried off and you’ve freshened up, walk again uphill in the park.  If you come in the Summer, there’s a chance that the Stalburg Theater will be hosting it’s annual concert series, Stoffel.  For over a month in the summer they host amazing concerts with all live professional musicians each evening along with food and drink carts lest you hunger or thirst.

There’s so many more secrets even hidden in Bornheim, but I’ll let you discover the others for yourself…

 

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